Last days in Kathmandu. May 5/6

Today, Gerald decided that he could not shave his beard (as this was an overwhelming task, it seems), but had to go to a Barber to get this done. This was somewhat problematic as everything is closed until 6:00 to 8:00 p.m., prime 'shopping' time.


markets are open from 6p.m. to 8p.m.




Luckily for Gerald, there was a brave place open, some blocks away from our hotel. The Barber shop had three workers, working steadily. Gerald got a shave, a facial and a back massage. After an hour of work, the bill came to $10.00.


getting a trim

While Gerald was having his face 'done', MaryIris was sitting on the edge of the shop people watching. Or, were they watching me, watching -- difficult to tell. Suddenly, there was a flurry of action as I was quickly told to get into the barber shop, while the'garage door' quickly went down. As we sat in the shop, we could hear the Maoist protestors walking by the shop, shouting their slogans and singing songs. After a period of time, the sounds decreased. Still, we waited in the shop until it was safe to open the 'garage door' and resume business as usual. It was an eerie feeling, again.


Maoist demonstrators

Around 5:30 p.m., we walked our Base Camp friends to the Tourist Bus, some blocks away, as they were leaving for the airport -- returning back to Edmonton, the other two (from Vancouver) going on to China. It was sad to say goodbye to the people we had climbed to Base Camp with. That evening we had supper at our hotel, which luckily made good food.

The next day, May 6th, we packed up our things. Somehow, despite the 'shopping curfew', we ended up with two additional bags and two backpacks to carry to the Tourist Bus today. Today, the temperature had dropped some and it was raining -- the beginning of the Monsoon Season. Good timing, on our part, having finished our trek in excellent, dry weather, except for a few snow flurries.


our Kathmandu hotel


After packing, we spent the day walking around the area for the last time, saying goodbye to Kathmandu and Nepal and our Base Camp Trek. We arrived at the Tourist Bus at 6:00 p.m. to be taken to the Airport to begin our 22-hour trip home. It was strange to see the streets, roads filled with people walking rather than the cars, motorbikes we had previously seen.

We boarded our plane to Doha, Qatar at 11:30 p.m. Arriving in Doha (after some five hours), we spent the evening in the Quiet Room trying to sleep. The next morning, we boarded at 9:30 a.m.. for our 14.5 hour trip to Washington.


- we'll be in Canada in 22 hrs.

Thank goodness Qatar Airlines provided lovely blankets, pillows, sleep masks, socks , toothpaste and individual television screens, with an array of movies to watch. The meals with white/red wine were also wonderful, as were the snacks of ice-cream.. Arriving in Washington, we boarded our next plane within a couple of hours for a 1.5 hour ride to Toronto Airport.

Dylan, greeted us quickly at the Airport as we adjusted to the temperature change and the rainy weather. While we enjoyed our adventure -- it was good to be home.

Namaste
MaryIris and Gerald

Kathmandu during the strike

on our way back

Kathmandu is quite different now with the strike. It is very quiet compared to our initial time spent here. Initially when we came into Kathmandu there was total chaos with cars, motorcycles and bikes and people all over the streets. Now, the streets only have people walking and most stores are closed until the time they can be open,from 6:00 to 8:00 p.m. We are so thankful that we were able to travel around Nepal prior to our Base Camp Trek and the strike, as it would be impossible to organize any trips now.



May 4th, we are feeling somewhat strange as it is difficult to get money from the banks, and the stores were closed. We eventually find a place that we can access some money, which was a great relief to us to be able to buy some water and snacks. We also were able to find another place, the Zen Experience, which would sneak us in to get a massage. The place had 'lookouts' at the 'garage door'. The massage was wonderful and cost less than $20.00 for over an hour.

On May 5th, we walked around the Thamel District and ventured outside of the District
to explore the area. We came across the area of Kathmandau/the park in which the protesters were speaking and rallied their supporters. We have been reading the papers here and getting some information about the strike.

May 3rd in Kathmandu

After a couple of our group members leave for home, etc., we pack our things to go to another hotel, the International Guest House. We decided to move back to this Hotel, as it was just as nice as the one we were staying in, but much more reasonable. It is a little 'out of the way', which is fine for us, given the quiet and being in a more 'residential' part of the Thamel District.

In the International Guest House, we were given a beautiful room and bathroom, on the 4t floor, overlooking the beautiful garden/dining room. At this Hotel, we also have a tv with CNN, HBO, etc., this includes English-speaking tv. The bonus of staying in this hotel is that we can charge everything to the bill, as it is difficult to access ATM machines due to power shortages, and the banks are closed due to the strike. Another bonus is that the food is wonderful at this hotel. One of our group members also moved to this hotel. Two other group members join us for meals at the hotel as it is difficult to eat in restaurants during this strike.



One night we went out to eat at a small, popular restaurant. We ate by candle light as the lights were shut off as to not draw attention to the fact that the restaurant was open. When we finished our meal,we were not able to leave immediately, until 'the street was clear of protestors and 'spys'. Eventually, when the restaurant persons thought it was safe enough for us to go, we left in darkness as the 'garage door' was opened for us. We were encouraged to be quiet and watch out for the broken glass on the street, as windows were broken by the Maoist protestors. This is a tactic used to scare shop/store owners from remaining open during the day.

The International Guest House has two computers working. This has been most helpful for us, i.e., keeping in touch with family and friends.

On May 3rd, the strike continues. This means that everything is closed.


streets are empty


We decide to go to the Monkey Temple which is not far from where we are staying, a 35-minute walk. On May 3rd, we decided to visit the 'Monkey Temple', Swayambhunath Temple.



There are two ways to approach the Swayambhunath temple. The most
atmospheric, which is the way we took, is the stone pilgrim stairway that
climbs the eastern end of the hill. This steep stone staircase is mobbed
by troops of monkeys, who have made an artform of sliding down the steep
handrails. When reaching the top, it is important to remember to walk
around the stupa in a clockwise direction. At the top of the eastern
stairway is an enormous, brass-plated dorje (celestial thunderbolt)one of
the core symbols of Tibetan Buddism. The thunderbolt is a symbol of the
power of enlightenment which destroys ignorance but is itself
undestructable. In rituals, the dorje is used to indicate male power,
while female power is represented by a ceremonial bell. The Swayambhunat
Stupa was built in the 17th century and is a perfectly proportioned
monument.

The Monkey Temple is a fascinating chaotic jumble of Buddhist and Hindu iconography. The compound is centred around a gleaming white stupa, topped by a gilded spire painted with the eyes of the Buddha. Coming to Swayambbunath is an intoxicating experience with ancient carvings jammed into every space inch of space and the smell of incense and butter lamps hanging heavy in the air. Local devotees make a ritual circumnavigation of the steps, spinning the prayer wheels set into its base. The view of Kathmandu from this height is amazing.


While walking to the 'Monkey Temple' we walked through a residential part of Kathmandu. It was somewhat sad and unbelievable to cross the river on the way there and back to our hotel and see the garbage in the river and smell it. It impacted us greatly, as I walked around with a kleenex I wanted to throw out, but could not find a garbage container anywhere during our walk.

The Maoist Party

The Maoist Party has shut Kathmandu down since May 1'st!

They are allowing essential services to open between 6p.m. and 8p.m. At least we get to do some shopping.


Maryiris getting a prayer shawl

We have been in the middle of some scary demonstrations, like the other night we had to hug the street store fronts as hundreds of demonstrators ran by shouting and carrying burning torches.



in the middle of a demonstration


We got into a restaurant that shut its doors and turned off the lights except for candles. Its eerie walking thru a capital city at night when it is dark, no street lights and broken glass on the street.


ordering food in a tea house

we are currently in a store, using the storekeeper's computer. the line-ups in the hotel to use the comuter have been long. It has been a strange time since May 2nd when the Maoist began their protests/strike. The store keeper is not to be open at this time, so he is anxious as is the other person in the store. they are only able to be open between the hours of 6:00 to 8:00 p.m. will work at getting to a computer later on today. the hydro is usually off between noon and 3:00 p.m., sometimes later.

we have had some trouble getting money, as the atm and banks have been closed. It is indeed a strange time.

Even though, we feel safe as people are very helpful and protective of tourists. The only vehicles allowed on the street are tourist shuttle buses to the airport.



after two wks. we're back


PEOPLE CAN CHECK THE KATHMANDU POST ; THE REPUBLICA ; AND THE HIMALAYAN FOR MORE NEWS ABOUT THE SITUATION.

May 1st

Yesterday, the Prime Minister of Nepal was to resign, as the Maoist Party want him to since they see him as having done very little for the country in four years. Since he did not resign, there are protests and demonstrations. This morning the protests began a little earlier than 6:0 a.m. first day -- all the stores are closed in Kathmandu. So, we are advised to stay off the streets for today. This is somewhat of a problem in terms of shopping, eating in restaurants, etc. But, our hotel is beautiful, good service, good internet, so we are blessed -- and we have a tv.



flight back to Kathmandu

coming down from base camp

We made it to EBC!


We cannot describe our feelings of achievement, having reached Base Camp. We continued to process these feelings the next day as we climbed to Kala Pather to see the best view of Mount Everest.


we all made it!!!

It was an extremely steep climb, which was doable. However, the cold winds and extremely cold temperature and cloudy conditions prevented us getting a clear view of Mt. Everest.



But, we did manage to see the summit before it clouded over.


Mt. Everest in the background

Returning to the Tea House in Gorakshep as quickly as we could, it took some time to thaw out our fingers and water bottles. Then off we left for a five-hour trek to Pheriche. This climb was extremely difficult as it was up and down, up and down. We did not realize that climbing to Base Camp meant climbing up both ways -- there and back.


leaving EBC

Reaching Periche, we had dinner and fell into bed, all of us exhausted. It was difficult to leave the main dinning room to go to bed as the owner kept putting Yak
Dung in the stove to warm the room. Our bedrooms were frigid.

The next day, April 28th, we headed back to Namche Bazaar, another difficult six-hour walk going up and down and around the mountain. The path seemed endless at times. However, walking through the Rhododendron forests, seeing the mani stones chorten and suspension bridges across the rivers made this walk very beautiful again. Namche Bazaar was the perfect spot to have another massage from the Shepra Doctor, as we had going up to Base Camp. Our bodies were thankful for this treat following the gruelling pace and distance we had been covering.





On April 29th we leave Namche Bazaar and proceed to retrace our steps back. On April 30th, we continue to retrace our steps heading towards Lukla to catch our plane back to Kathmandu.

On April 30th we are in Lukla and we begin the celebration of our achievement. Previously, not able to have a beer, wine or alcohol, our Hotel in Lukla has an Happy Hour from 4:00 to 6:00 p.m. Given our group's enthusiasm, the Hotel begins the Happy Hour at 2:00 p.m. We are all very happy, having reached our goal, Lukla and had hot showers and warmer bedrooms. After much pool playing, dancing and singing, we go to bed, late that evening and the Bar closes down at 10:00 p.m.

Everest Base Camp

We made it to Base Camp!!

and are on our way down today (5hours of walking) and tomorrow. (April 29 & 30)

Heading up to Base Camp from Dingboche.

We are on our fourth day of the trek up to Base Camp in Namche Bazaar. It is the last stop of civilization before we get to Base Camp. We are at 3600 metres. Some people have turned back experiencing altitude sickness. We are fine. I guess our training on Baden Hill are paying off.

The food is great. However, we are now vegetarian, as we have been advised not to eat meat or drink beer or alcohol. We brought a huge chocolate bar to have and share when we reach Base Camp.

We are in Dingboche. Internet is 30 cents a minute. In three days we will be at Base Camp. Feeling fine at 4400 metres. We will find it difficult to write at this point until we return to Kathmandu on May 1st.

Dingboche 27°53′N 86°49′E is a village in the Khumbu region of eastern Nepal in the Chukhung Valley. Situated at an altitude of about 4,530 metres (14,800 ft), Dingboche is a popular stop for trekkers and climbers headed to Mount Everest, Ama Dablam or Imja Tse. Parties will typically spend two nights in Dingboche for acclimatization purposes. The village relies heavily on tourists with lodges and tenting areas comprising most of Dingboche. The Imja River flows directly east of the village.

We are noticing that as we proceeded higher and closer to our goal of reaching Base Camp, the food is becoming more expensive. The cost of water has risen from 200 rupes to 500 rupes. We spend two nights in Dingboche acclimatizating to the altitude. Our Guide tested the group by taking us out for a trek up to 5,000m. in preparation for Base Camp. We all passed 'the test'.

Lobuche Apr 25

On April 25, we proceeded to Lobuche. We saw the moraine of the Khumbu Glacier, the largest in the World. The Glacier stretches all the way to Base Camp and then heads into the mountains.



on the trail

We notice that our water is freezing in the bottles. We are advised to put our cameras in our sleeping bags with us and use socks to wrap the water bottles in. The trails are filled with large rocks and the terrain is more difficult to
walk across.


are you sure its the right way?

We are now noticing two/three helicopters a day coming into the area we are in. We suspect and hear that people are being transported down into a more comfortable altitude. AMS is dangerous.


the boys

On April 26th, we get up early, as usual. It is below zero in our bedroom. Gerald has hash browns for breakfast, MaryIris has the usual porridge. By 7:30 a.m. we are off trekking, wearing every piece of clothing possible to keep warm. After trekking some 3.5 hours on a slight grade rocky path, we arive in Gorakshep.


Yak Yak Yak

We get our room, a 7'X 10' space with an added feature, i.e., a large window sill on which we could put things versus the usual floorspace. The bathroom is down the hall. A sink is nowhere in sight -- this is not unusual. It seems that we will be
brushing our teeth with the yaks outside in the cold.



its getting colder

After a lunch of Sherpa Stew to fortify ourselves,we replenish our water, making certain that we have enough. We have learned that water contains oxygen and is extremely valuable to us on our trekking. We are off to Base Camp.



our guides

After a 2.5 hours trek over boulders, flat areas, stone-covered paths above the largest glacier in the world, back and forth, up and down, we pass through an ice path



glacier under rubble near EBC

and see the monument covered with prayer flags and a sign saying EVEREST BASE CAMP. We are elated --we made it. We celebrate with hugs and 'hifives' and pieces of chocolate of a giant Dairy Bar, as alcohol is not recommended.


getting close

We see Everest Base Camp dotted with yellow tents because April/May is climbing season.


getting close


WE MADE IT -- IT WAS AND IS TRULY UNBELIEVEABLE.



It is difficult to describe our feelings at this time. We are still marvelling at this accomplishment, knowing that it was a difficult task.

Leaving Base Camp, difficult as it was, we begin to head back to Gorakshep -- it is snowing. Again, the path is difficult to navigate, but we eventually arrive back at our Tea House, supper and a warm sleeping bag, having a feeling of having conquered our goal.

Tengboche, yak power

In Tengboche we had the priviledge of visiting the Buddhist Monastery. In the afternoon, we entered the Temple and witnessed the ending half of the ceremony.


entrance to temple

The next morning, when we were up early to watch the sunrise, we heard a Tibetan opera of horns being blown and bells chiming in the monastery courtyard in preparation for the morning service. We were able to witness and participate in the beginning of a Buddhist service that morning. It was difficult to leave the incredible sound of the Monks chanting in the sacred space of the Temple.


inside Buddist temple

Unfortunately, we had to have our breakfast and proceed with our journey. Sometimes, it was difficult to eat, as we did not feel hungry. But we knew we had to eat to have the energy and strength to proceed with our trekking.

For five days now, we have not seen a car, motorcycle, bicycle, only Yak power.


Having approached 4,000m, the landscape has changed -- the trees are gone replaced with short spruce bushes and rocks.


sharing the trail


We arrive in Dingboche that afternoon on April 23rd. The Tea House is 'nice' and the bathrooms have one 'squatter' and one 'regular' bathroom -- a sitdown -- what a treat. We had a 'shower' with one bucket of hot water. It goes a long way.




We are now hearing stories of people getting sick, i.e., AMS and not able to proceed higher to Base Camp. Our Guide is telling us to watch for certain symptoms, i.e., headaches in the back of your head, feeling nauseous, feeling dizzy. We are being reminded to eat Garlic soup everyday and to drink large amounts of water. We have also been reminded that we are not to nap during the day because of the altitude. Our group of nine individuals is very experienced and diligent in listening to our Guide's advice.






day 2

Namche Bazaar Apr 21

On April 21, we woke early to see the sunrise at 6:15 a.m. It was a magnificant sight seeing the sun and the snow-capped mountains in the background. After breakfast, we hiked to the hilltop museum to learn more about the area and its history. We could see Mt. Everest very clearly.


first day on the trek




Then we did a 250m climb to see the highest airstrip in the world. This airstrip is for small aircraft only. We then circled our way back down to Namche Bazaar for lunch. MaryIris (and a few others) went for a massage therapist educated as a Tibetan Doctor. He did a combination of Tibetan and Thia massage. Gerald decided to also get a massage upon hearing the others talking about how good it felt.


sharing the trail


Gerald also visited a school in Namche Bazaar, where he donated a bag full of pens. He received a thank you and a tour of the classes, while students were studying.


small sherpa village


The next day, April 22nd, we headed to Tengbache at 3800. It was a long day of trekking. It was unbelieveably beautiful. The Dudh Kosi far below us and Thamserku, Kantega Ama Dablam, Lhotse and Everest rose in front of us. While we walked in rhododendron forests in bloom, seeing mani walls, chorten and suspension bridges across the river.


suspension bridge

The morning view from Tengboche is justifiably considered to be one of the most magnificant in the world.

Namche Bazaar

The next day, April 20th, we proceeded to Namche Bazaar, a 9km walk, taking us some six hours and going up to 3,446m. We entered Sagarmantha National Park -- this trail crosses the river on long, swaying suspension bridge that lead us along the river, following the Dudh Kosi. Shortly after crossing the last bridge, we got our first glimpse of M. Everest in the distance. It was a steady brutal climb to Namche Bazaar. It was the first climb during which Altitude Mountain Sickness (AMS) might have been a problem. We took it very slow and easy, one step at a time, avoiding the tendency to rush.



Namache Bazaar is the main trade and administrative centre for the entire Solu Khumbu region and has trek shops, restaurants, bakeries, pharmacies, hotels with hot showers (very important, as we climb higher, and higher), massage centre, post office, money changer, bank, ATM and even internet cafes. Namache Bazaar and the surrounding villages have an ample supply of hydroelectricity used for lighting and cooking. While there is electricity here, this does not mean that we had electricity all the time, as sometimes it was off, i.e., first thing in the morning, when we were trying to get ready for breakfast and pack our gear for the day.




During our hike up to Namache Bazaar we saw many yaks, prayer flags, stupas and mani stones (stones with carved mantras by the Buddhist monks). The scenery was spectacular, as was the hike consisting of steep slopes uphill and steep slopes downhill.


stupa along the trail.


We stayed for two nights in Namache Bazaar acclimatizing our bodies to the altitude. Our Guide was very knowledgeale in providing us with information regarding the preparation of our bodies to climb to Base Camp. His advice included the following: getting lots of sleep, when possible, drinking lots of water (ups to five litres per day (which we had to carry for the day), eating garlic soup (readily available on the mountain), eating no meat, no alcohol and eating lots of carbohydrates, i.e., Dal Boht (a Nepali dish consisting of rice, lentil 'sauce', and vegetables), fried noodles, spaghetti, rice, my favourite sherpa stew (consisting of noodles, potatoes and vegetables).



the trail leads on




almost there

Lukla to Pakding

After landing in Lukla on April 19th we walked for three and half hours to Pakding at 2,652m.


flying to Lukla

Heading trough pine and cedar woods along the Dudh Kosi to Parkding we encounter our first yak caravans carrying trekking equipment and supplies towards Base Camp. Yaks are wonderful beasts creating mobile roadblocks or virtual avalanches on downhill stretches. You know to stand aside when the yaks are coming as you can hear the bells they wear as they get close. We were informed that this would be one of our easiest days.



sherpa village


Surrounded by snow-capped mountains we settle into one of the rooms in the teahouse, noticing that the temperature has changed significantly from the warm weather in Kathmandu to the chilly evening of the mountains.



Sat. brunch


A teahouse is a home owned by a Sherpa family which has additional bedrooms attached to the main dining area. The small bedrooms are not heated. The main dinning room is heated with dung 'patties'.


birthday party in our tea house

The teahouses do not begin heating their dining room until 5;00 p.m. due to the lack of dung fuel. We learned very quickly to enjoy the heat of the stove while it lasted before retiring to our 'refrigerators' and down sleeping bags and beautiful views in our room.



Mani stones along the trail


We also learned to order a large thermos of hot boiling water for the next day. We would purify this water and put it in our plastic bottles and put it in our sleeping bags to keep ourselves warm for the night. The water bottle would still be warm in the morning.



starting EBC trek