Last days in Kathmandu. May 5/6

Today, Gerald decided that he could not shave his beard (as this was an overwhelming task, it seems), but had to go to a Barber to get this done. This was somewhat problematic as everything is closed until 6:00 to 8:00 p.m., prime 'shopping' time.


markets are open from 6p.m. to 8p.m.




Luckily for Gerald, there was a brave place open, some blocks away from our hotel. The Barber shop had three workers, working steadily. Gerald got a shave, a facial and a back massage. After an hour of work, the bill came to $10.00.


getting a trim

While Gerald was having his face 'done', MaryIris was sitting on the edge of the shop people watching. Or, were they watching me, watching -- difficult to tell. Suddenly, there was a flurry of action as I was quickly told to get into the barber shop, while the'garage door' quickly went down. As we sat in the shop, we could hear the Maoist protestors walking by the shop, shouting their slogans and singing songs. After a period of time, the sounds decreased. Still, we waited in the shop until it was safe to open the 'garage door' and resume business as usual. It was an eerie feeling, again.


Maoist demonstrators

Around 5:30 p.m., we walked our Base Camp friends to the Tourist Bus, some blocks away, as they were leaving for the airport -- returning back to Edmonton, the other two (from Vancouver) going on to China. It was sad to say goodbye to the people we had climbed to Base Camp with. That evening we had supper at our hotel, which luckily made good food.

The next day, May 6th, we packed up our things. Somehow, despite the 'shopping curfew', we ended up with two additional bags and two backpacks to carry to the Tourist Bus today. Today, the temperature had dropped some and it was raining -- the beginning of the Monsoon Season. Good timing, on our part, having finished our trek in excellent, dry weather, except for a few snow flurries.


our Kathmandu hotel


After packing, we spent the day walking around the area for the last time, saying goodbye to Kathmandu and Nepal and our Base Camp Trek. We arrived at the Tourist Bus at 6:00 p.m. to be taken to the Airport to begin our 22-hour trip home. It was strange to see the streets, roads filled with people walking rather than the cars, motorbikes we had previously seen.

We boarded our plane to Doha, Qatar at 11:30 p.m. Arriving in Doha (after some five hours), we spent the evening in the Quiet Room trying to sleep. The next morning, we boarded at 9:30 a.m.. for our 14.5 hour trip to Washington.


- we'll be in Canada in 22 hrs.

Thank goodness Qatar Airlines provided lovely blankets, pillows, sleep masks, socks , toothpaste and individual television screens, with an array of movies to watch. The meals with white/red wine were also wonderful, as were the snacks of ice-cream.. Arriving in Washington, we boarded our next plane within a couple of hours for a 1.5 hour ride to Toronto Airport.

Dylan, greeted us quickly at the Airport as we adjusted to the temperature change and the rainy weather. While we enjoyed our adventure -- it was good to be home.

Namaste
MaryIris and Gerald

Kathmandu during the strike

on our way back

Kathmandu is quite different now with the strike. It is very quiet compared to our initial time spent here. Initially when we came into Kathmandu there was total chaos with cars, motorcycles and bikes and people all over the streets. Now, the streets only have people walking and most stores are closed until the time they can be open,from 6:00 to 8:00 p.m. We are so thankful that we were able to travel around Nepal prior to our Base Camp Trek and the strike, as it would be impossible to organize any trips now.



May 4th, we are feeling somewhat strange as it is difficult to get money from the banks, and the stores were closed. We eventually find a place that we can access some money, which was a great relief to us to be able to buy some water and snacks. We also were able to find another place, the Zen Experience, which would sneak us in to get a massage. The place had 'lookouts' at the 'garage door'. The massage was wonderful and cost less than $20.00 for over an hour.

On May 5th, we walked around the Thamel District and ventured outside of the District
to explore the area. We came across the area of Kathmandau/the park in which the protesters were speaking and rallied their supporters. We have been reading the papers here and getting some information about the strike.

May 3rd in Kathmandu

After a couple of our group members leave for home, etc., we pack our things to go to another hotel, the International Guest House. We decided to move back to this Hotel, as it was just as nice as the one we were staying in, but much more reasonable. It is a little 'out of the way', which is fine for us, given the quiet and being in a more 'residential' part of the Thamel District.

In the International Guest House, we were given a beautiful room and bathroom, on the 4t floor, overlooking the beautiful garden/dining room. At this Hotel, we also have a tv with CNN, HBO, etc., this includes English-speaking tv. The bonus of staying in this hotel is that we can charge everything to the bill, as it is difficult to access ATM machines due to power shortages, and the banks are closed due to the strike. Another bonus is that the food is wonderful at this hotel. One of our group members also moved to this hotel. Two other group members join us for meals at the hotel as it is difficult to eat in restaurants during this strike.



One night we went out to eat at a small, popular restaurant. We ate by candle light as the lights were shut off as to not draw attention to the fact that the restaurant was open. When we finished our meal,we were not able to leave immediately, until 'the street was clear of protestors and 'spys'. Eventually, when the restaurant persons thought it was safe enough for us to go, we left in darkness as the 'garage door' was opened for us. We were encouraged to be quiet and watch out for the broken glass on the street, as windows were broken by the Maoist protestors. This is a tactic used to scare shop/store owners from remaining open during the day.

The International Guest House has two computers working. This has been most helpful for us, i.e., keeping in touch with family and friends.

On May 3rd, the strike continues. This means that everything is closed.


streets are empty


We decide to go to the Monkey Temple which is not far from where we are staying, a 35-minute walk. On May 3rd, we decided to visit the 'Monkey Temple', Swayambhunath Temple.



There are two ways to approach the Swayambhunath temple. The most
atmospheric, which is the way we took, is the stone pilgrim stairway that
climbs the eastern end of the hill. This steep stone staircase is mobbed
by troops of monkeys, who have made an artform of sliding down the steep
handrails. When reaching the top, it is important to remember to walk
around the stupa in a clockwise direction. At the top of the eastern
stairway is an enormous, brass-plated dorje (celestial thunderbolt)one of
the core symbols of Tibetan Buddism. The thunderbolt is a symbol of the
power of enlightenment which destroys ignorance but is itself
undestructable. In rituals, the dorje is used to indicate male power,
while female power is represented by a ceremonial bell. The Swayambhunat
Stupa was built in the 17th century and is a perfectly proportioned
monument.

The Monkey Temple is a fascinating chaotic jumble of Buddhist and Hindu iconography. The compound is centred around a gleaming white stupa, topped by a gilded spire painted with the eyes of the Buddha. Coming to Swayambbunath is an intoxicating experience with ancient carvings jammed into every space inch of space and the smell of incense and butter lamps hanging heavy in the air. Local devotees make a ritual circumnavigation of the steps, spinning the prayer wheels set into its base. The view of Kathmandu from this height is amazing.


While walking to the 'Monkey Temple' we walked through a residential part of Kathmandu. It was somewhat sad and unbelievable to cross the river on the way there and back to our hotel and see the garbage in the river and smell it. It impacted us greatly, as I walked around with a kleenex I wanted to throw out, but could not find a garbage container anywhere during our walk.

The Maoist Party

The Maoist Party has shut Kathmandu down since May 1'st!

They are allowing essential services to open between 6p.m. and 8p.m. At least we get to do some shopping.


Maryiris getting a prayer shawl

We have been in the middle of some scary demonstrations, like the other night we had to hug the street store fronts as hundreds of demonstrators ran by shouting and carrying burning torches.



in the middle of a demonstration


We got into a restaurant that shut its doors and turned off the lights except for candles. Its eerie walking thru a capital city at night when it is dark, no street lights and broken glass on the street.


ordering food in a tea house

we are currently in a store, using the storekeeper's computer. the line-ups in the hotel to use the comuter have been long. It has been a strange time since May 2nd when the Maoist began their protests/strike. The store keeper is not to be open at this time, so he is anxious as is the other person in the store. they are only able to be open between the hours of 6:00 to 8:00 p.m. will work at getting to a computer later on today. the hydro is usually off between noon and 3:00 p.m., sometimes later.

we have had some trouble getting money, as the atm and banks have been closed. It is indeed a strange time.

Even though, we feel safe as people are very helpful and protective of tourists. The only vehicles allowed on the street are tourist shuttle buses to the airport.



after two wks. we're back


PEOPLE CAN CHECK THE KATHMANDU POST ; THE REPUBLICA ; AND THE HIMALAYAN FOR MORE NEWS ABOUT THE SITUATION.

May 1st

Yesterday, the Prime Minister of Nepal was to resign, as the Maoist Party want him to since they see him as having done very little for the country in four years. Since he did not resign, there are protests and demonstrations. This morning the protests began a little earlier than 6:0 a.m. first day -- all the stores are closed in Kathmandu. So, we are advised to stay off the streets for today. This is somewhat of a problem in terms of shopping, eating in restaurants, etc. But, our hotel is beautiful, good service, good internet, so we are blessed -- and we have a tv.



flight back to Kathmandu

coming down from base camp

We made it to EBC!


We cannot describe our feelings of achievement, having reached Base Camp. We continued to process these feelings the next day as we climbed to Kala Pather to see the best view of Mount Everest.


we all made it!!!

It was an extremely steep climb, which was doable. However, the cold winds and extremely cold temperature and cloudy conditions prevented us getting a clear view of Mt. Everest.



But, we did manage to see the summit before it clouded over.


Mt. Everest in the background

Returning to the Tea House in Gorakshep as quickly as we could, it took some time to thaw out our fingers and water bottles. Then off we left for a five-hour trek to Pheriche. This climb was extremely difficult as it was up and down, up and down. We did not realize that climbing to Base Camp meant climbing up both ways -- there and back.


leaving EBC

Reaching Periche, we had dinner and fell into bed, all of us exhausted. It was difficult to leave the main dinning room to go to bed as the owner kept putting Yak
Dung in the stove to warm the room. Our bedrooms were frigid.

The next day, April 28th, we headed back to Namche Bazaar, another difficult six-hour walk going up and down and around the mountain. The path seemed endless at times. However, walking through the Rhododendron forests, seeing the mani stones chorten and suspension bridges across the rivers made this walk very beautiful again. Namche Bazaar was the perfect spot to have another massage from the Shepra Doctor, as we had going up to Base Camp. Our bodies were thankful for this treat following the gruelling pace and distance we had been covering.





On April 29th we leave Namche Bazaar and proceed to retrace our steps back. On April 30th, we continue to retrace our steps heading towards Lukla to catch our plane back to Kathmandu.

On April 30th we are in Lukla and we begin the celebration of our achievement. Previously, not able to have a beer, wine or alcohol, our Hotel in Lukla has an Happy Hour from 4:00 to 6:00 p.m. Given our group's enthusiasm, the Hotel begins the Happy Hour at 2:00 p.m. We are all very happy, having reached our goal, Lukla and had hot showers and warmer bedrooms. After much pool playing, dancing and singing, we go to bed, late that evening and the Bar closes down at 10:00 p.m.

Everest Base Camp

We made it to Base Camp!!

and are on our way down today (5hours of walking) and tomorrow. (April 29 & 30)